How a Short Restaurant Wine List Actually Works

When Sugar Summit Drive opened in 2018, the wine list was twelve bottles long. It is still about twelve bottles long. That was not an accident or a budget constraint. A short list, changed regularly, is genuinely more useful to a guest than a long list that sits still for a year.

The case for a short list ¶

A long wine list puts the work on the guest. They have to navigate it, make sense of it, and hope they are picking something that goes with what they ordered. A short list, if it is well chosen, does the work for them. Every bottle on our list is there because someone on the team tasted it and decided it belonged next to the food we are currently serving.

We run about eight to ten bottles at any given time, split between whites, reds, and one or two sparkling or orange wines depending on the season. There are always two or three options by the glass. The list changes when the menu changes, which is every four to six weeks, and sometimes sooner if a bottle runs out and we find something better.

Why we focus on BC and Quebec ¶

BC wine has changed significantly in the last decade. The Okanagan and Similkameen valleys are producing Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Viognier, and Riesling that hold up against anything from comparable climates elsewhere. Quebec is doing interesting things with cold-hardy varieties and natural wine methods. Both regions are producing wine that tastes like where it is from, which is what we want on the table.

We are not dogmatic about it. If a guest asks for something from elsewhere, we can usually find a solution. But the default is Canadian, and most guests find that interesting rather than limiting.

How the pairing works in practice ¶

Our front-of-house lead Jonah handles the wine selection and pairing. He tastes everything before it goes on the list and works with Claire to match the list to the current menu. For the tasting menu, the pairing is set: four pours, chosen to move with the courses. For a la carte, he or another server will make a suggestion based on what you ordered.

The goal is never to upsell. The goal is to make the food taste better. Sometimes that means recommending the cheaper bottle.

A note on natural and low-intervention wine ¶

We pour a few natural and low-intervention wines, but we do not lead with that framing. Some guests love it, some find it polarising, and the label can get in the way of just drinking the wine. If you are curious, ask. Jonah will tell you exactly what is in the glass and why it is there.

The current list is on the menu page and changes with the season. If you have a question about a specific bottle or want to know what is open by the glass this week, just call us.